HEADING 58.10 - EMBROIDERY IN THE PIECE IN STRIPS OR IN MOTIFS (+) .

112 COMMODITIES

5810.10 - Embroidery without visible ground

- Other embroidery :

5810.91 - - Of cotton

5810.92 - - Of man-made fibres

5810.99 - - Of other textile materials

Embroidery is obtained by working with embroidering threads on a pre-existing ground

of tulle net velvet ribbon knitted or crocheted fabric lace or woven fabric or of felt or

nonwovens in order to produce an ornamental effect on that ground. The embroidery

threads are usually of textiles but the heading also includes those executed with other

materials (for example metal glass or raffia). The ground fabric usually forms part of

the completed embroidery but in certain cases it is removed (e.g. chemically or by

cutting) after being embroidered and only the design remains. Certain embroidery is not

made with embroidery threads but with strips or braids.

Thus the manufacture starting with a pre-existing ground fabric distinguishes

embroidery from lace and lace should not be confused with embroidery from which the

ground fabric has been eliminated after execution. Neither should embroidery be

confused with woven fabrics bearing designs produced by broch‚ threads during the

weaving process (plumetis and other broch‚ work). Features distinguishing embroidery

from these other products will be found later in this Explanatory Note.

Embroidery may be hand or machine made. Hand-made embroidery is of

comparatively small dimensions. Machine-made embroidery on the other hand is very

often in long lengths.

The embroidery classified here comprises mainly the following three groups :

(I) EMBROIDERY WITHOUT VISIBLE GROUND

This is embroidery in which the ground fabric has been eliminated (e.g. by a

chemical process by cutting out). Thus the material consists entirely of the

embroidered designs.

Since it has no background certain machine embroidery of this type might be

confused with lace of heading 58.04 but can however be distinguished by taking into

account the following points :

(A) Whereas lace is made up of a single continuous thread or by the interlacing of

two or more continuous threads with the same functions and generally has the

same appearance on both sides machine embroidery of this kind comprises

two threads with different functions; one the embroidery thread the other a

shuttle thread underneath the fabric the latter usually finer than the former. Thus

the right and wrong sides of the embroidery appear different the right side

showing a certain relief whereas the wrong side is flat.

(B) The edges of cut out embroidery often show small ends of the ground fabric

threads which have not been completely eliminated.

(II) EMBROIDERY WITH THE GROUND RETAINED

AFTER EMBROIDERING

This is embroidery in which the embroidering thread does not usually cover the whole

of the ground fabric but appears in the form of patterns on the surface or around its

edges. The stitches used are varied and include running stitch chain-stitch back or

lock-stitch herring-bone stitch point de poste seed-stitch loop-stitch buttonhole

stitch. As a rule the entire design can only be seen on the right side of the fabric. Many

varieties of embroidery have small holes or openwork produced by cutting by boring

the ground fabric with a stiletto or by withdrawing certain warp or weft threads (or both)

from the ground fabric and then finishing or embellishing the fabrics with embroidery

stitches. This adds lightness to the embroidery or may even constitute its principal

attraction; examples are broderie anglaise and drawn thread work.

Materials which have been submitted only to the simple process of withdrawing the threads are excluded from this

heading.

In certain kinds of embroidery the desired design is first outlined or filled in with a

padding thread to give the embroidered design greater relief.

Some varieties of machine-made embroidery in particular satin stitch embroidery and

certain embroidered muslins appear very similar to broch‚ muslins and other broch‚

fabrics (e.g. plumetis) classified in Chapters 50 to 55. They can be distinguished

however by the following characteristics arising from their method of manufacture. In

broch‚ fabrics since the designs are produced by broch‚ threads introduced during

the course of the weaving process each item of a row of design is always between

exactly the same weft threads or exactly the same warp threads of the ground fabric; in

embroidered fabrics on the contrary the ground fabric is woven before the designs are

produced on the surface. In order to obtain these designs the ground fabric is

stretched on an embroidery machine so the tension and position of the fabric cannot

be sufficiently perfect for the needles of the machine to insert all the corresponding

parts of the embroidery exactly between the same weft or warp threads of the ground

fabric. Moreover the needles often pierce the threads of the ground fabric which

cannot happen in broch‚ fabrics.

These distinguishing features of broch‚ fabrics and embroidered fabrics can be seen

on fraying up the edges of the design.

(III) APPLIQUE WORK

This consists of a ground of textile fabric or felt on which are sewn by embroidery or

ordinary stitches :

(A) Beads sequins or similar ornamental accessories; these accessories are

generally made of glass gelatin metal or wood and are sewn so as to produce

a pattern or a scattered design on the ground fabric.

(B) Ornamental motifs of textile or other materials. These motifs are usually a textile

fabric (including lace) of a texture different from that of the ground fabric and cut

in various patterns which are sewn to the ground fabric; in certain cases the

ground fabric is removed at the places covered by the applied motif.

(C) Braid chenille yarn or other trimmings etc. in the form of a design on the

ground fabric.

All varieties of embroidery described remain within this heading when in the following

forms :

(1) In the piece or in strips of various widths. These pieces or strips may bear a

series of identical designs whether or not intended for subsequent separation to

be made up into finished articles (e.g. strips of embroidered labels for marking

articles of apparel or pieces embroidered at regular intervals intended to be cut

up and made up into bibs).

(2) In the form of motifs i.e. individual pieces of embroidered design serving no

other function than to be incorporated or appliqu‚d as elements of embroidery in

for example underwear or articles of apparel or furnishings. They may be cut to

any shape backed or otherwise assembled. They include badges emblems "

flashes " initials numbers stars national or sporting insignia etc.

The heading does not cover :

(a)Embroidery on non-textile materials (for example leather wickerwork plastics cardboard).

(b)Needle-worked tapestries (heading 58.05).

(c)Sets consisting of woven fabric and yarn for making up into embroidered tablecloths or serviettes or similar

articles (heading 63.08).

(d)Embroidery (other than motifs) made up within the meaning of Part (II) of the General Explanatory Note to

Section XI whether or not in the form of finished articles ready for use. Also individual articles of embroidery

completely finished ready for use as such which are embroidered directly in their final shape without any

further fabrication. This wide range of articles is classified as made up articles (e.g. CHAPTER61 62 63 or

65) and includes for example handkerchiefs bibs cuffs collars bodices dresses tray-cloths table-

centres mantlepiece covers table-mats and curtains.

(e)Embroidery with glass thread without visible ground (heading 70.19).

ø

ø ø

Subheading Explanatory Note.

Subheading 5810.10

This subheading does not include broderie anglaise.